Measuring Fabric Quality

The quality of fabric is measured by the fineness of the yarn that is used to weave the fabric. The higher the yarn count, the finer the fabric, and the more expensive the shirt. When you see a number such as 80s or 100s the simple answer to the curious customer is that this is the yarn count.

Warp and Weft Threads

Warp threads run vertically from the top of a woven fabric to the bottom. These lengthwise warp threads are usually more numerous or stronger than weft threads (horizontal) in order to withstand the tension on a loom or weaving frame. The fineness of a yarn (yarn count) is expressed by an “Ne” (Number English) number. A “1 Ne” yarn means 840 yards or 770 meters of the yarn weighs 1 pound. Higher the number, thinner the yarn, finer the fabric. A regular t-shirt can be knitted from 20 Ne to 40 Ne. At Eagle Falcon Shirtmakers, we use luxury shirting fabrics 80 Ne to 300 Ne 2-ply: meaning two intertwined 300 Ne Yarns. These are finer than the human hair!

Weft threads run horizontally (crosswise) from one end of the fabric to the other, going over or under the warp threads. A single weft thread is also called “a pick.” This intertwining of the warp and the weft are the essence of weaving a cloth. Different types of weaves and structures can be made by alternating when the weft and the warp cross each other. Some common weave types are: Poplin, Oxford, Twill, Herringbone, Panama.